Panforte Margherita

It was the intense smell of cinnamon and an array of various other spices which caught my attention first. I certainly wasn’t expecting such a delectable fragrance to be exuding from a rather ugly, flat, curiously bumpy and dense looking cake. I was intrigued.

Panforte – translating to “strong bread” – originated in Siena, Tuscany, and dates back to the Middle Ages where it was originally labelled; ‘Panpepato’.

Legend has it that the cake was initially a gift given by servants who were obliged to present it to the nuns of the Abbey of Montecelso in Siena. As it is traditionally made with an abundance of spices, fruits and nuts, it became a delight that only the wealthy aristocrats could enjoy on important occasions such as Christmas for they were the only ones who could afford the somewhat extensive list of ingredients.

For centuries, the recipe for panpepato was unaltered. However, when Queen Margherita of Savoy visited Siena in 1879, a version of the cake was made by a local spice seller who replaced the traditional black pepper with vanilla-sugar. In her honour, this ‘white’ and sweeter version of the cake was labelled ‘Panforte Margherita’.

Today however, as it is variations of this ‘white’ adaptation which are more commonly consumed, celebrated and eaten by all walks of life (not only in Siena but all over the globe) it emphasises the fluid nature of cuisines and the significance innovative individuals have on influencing modern cuisine just as Pujol (2009) revealed in his work outlining the transformation of Catalan cuisine.